Visit a shell cave, hanging on the cliff!

Discover Charente Maritime

On vacation near Royan, you are only 15 minutes from a truly unusual and almost unique place : The Regulus and Fontaines caves, in Meschers-sur-Gironde. It is a very characteristic tourist site of the region and astonishing! A visit which combines several attractions and which will please young and old alike, I've been there, I'll take you with me !

Caves dug into the limestone

In the Cretaceous, the sea was infinitely higher than today ! The sediments were deposited in layers (observe the shells embedded in the walls) and a porous limestone was formed. Barely a few million years later... The Regulus caves are a boon for opportunists ( pirates in the 19th century, Protestants celebrating their cult, then the bourgeoisie of the 20th century), who discover that by digging, the cliff can become a perfectly welcoming habitat.

On a self-guided or guided tour (I recommend the guided tour, it's always more lively and the guide is particularly friendly and interesting), the Grottes du Régulus and des Fontaines are first of all an opportunity to admire a grandiose panorama and privileged on the Gironde estuary. On a clear day, you will clearly observe the coastal structure, with Bordeaux on your left and the Atlantic Ocean on your right. By the way, did you know that the Gironde estuary is the largest in Europe ? It extends over 75 km, from the confluence of the two rivers (Dordogne and Garonne, the Bec d'Ambes), to its mouth with the ocean.

The visit is organized from room to room, we first wander through small troglodyte cavities (with exhibitions of objects) and we cross the old Fontaines restaurant. Closed in 1976, I would have loved to come and dine in this incredible environment... Overlooking the estuary, in the middle of the shell walls, it must have been magical ! Numerous photos adorn the walk, to immerse the visitor. Then, you discover rock shelters, that is to say that the development was done using a natural cavity, closed or not (depending on its depth and the need).

The life of troglodytes and fishermen

Observe the square in the distance! In the waters of the estuary, many fish are caught, or rather we were fishing... The catches are becoming rarer like everywhere and while a simple immersion of the plaice net and a little patience was enough to bring up enough to do a meal, today, fish catches are rarer. For example, in the past there were many Meagers who came to breed in the estuary. They are strange fish, not as slender as their name might suggest. They grumble and that's how we flush them out : it's fishing by listening. Another example, Pibale or Civelle (Eel) was once very common (the " poor man's dish "), we took 3 to 5 tonnes per season. Today, a season represents around a hundred kilos, which explains its price (from 150 to 900€ per kilo depending on the size). The squares are today places of relaxation, people come there mainly to have a good time, you can rent them for the day or half a day. A tip, how do you know when to pull up the net? When the bottle of Pineau is empty ;)

But why is the cave called “ Regulus ” anyway ? During the visit, you will discover the model of the Régulus, the boat of the Napoleonic fleet whose aim was to chase the English, but which due to lack of resources had to be scuttled just in front of the cliff. The other inhabitants of these places, who are presented to you through mannequins and life scenes (kitchen, bedroom, dining room, etc.) are the pirates, including Cadet the Wrecker and the last inhabitant of the place : Marie Guichard who is famous thanks to numerous postcards bearing his image. In July and August, the visits are really fun on Tuesday evenings, because the costumed characters come to life thanks to actors !

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Advice from the Charente Maritime Guide: I visited in the morning. The advantage is that there are fewer people and more opportunities to chat with the tour guide. The disadvantage is the mist which is more present in the morning and then lifts.